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Local Meats Wild and Tame

March 9, 2010

Recently your host had the opportunity to help prepare a batch of Vietnamese pho, a hearty beef noodle soup from Hanoi, in the northern part of the country, with friend Elizabeth Spinzia at her Rhinebeck home.

A variety of beef bones and parts were sourced from Tivoli’s Northwind Farms, who raise all-natural meats on their small farm. The bones simmered for hours with cloves, cinnamon, star anise, and charred onion and ginger to make an aromatically irresistible broth. The following day (after a lovely appetizer of freshly made imperial rolls dipped in peanut sauce), the broth with bits of simmered meat was ladled over thin flat rice noodles.

Oodles of noodles.

Elizabeth scoops rice noodles out of the heady beef broth. Photo by James L. Stevenson.

The table was laden with an assortment of condiments for guests to add themselves: bean sprouts, fresh mint, basil and cilantro, minced hot peppers, hoisin and sriracha sauces, limes to squeeze, and thin slices of freshly cut beef.

raw beef

Elizabeth gets ready thin slices of raw meat that will cook right in the broth. Photo by James L. Stevenson.

Adding condiments

Elizabeth and Jennifer add condiments to taste to their bowls of pho. Photo by James L. Stevenson.

* * *

A week later your host feasted again at the annual game dinner of Northern Dutchess Rod & Gun Club in Rhinebeck. On the menu was a huge array of wild game, some local, some from further afield, but all free-range and natural!

Appetizers included wild duck pate, summer sausage and salami made from venison, a cured ham of wild boar, wild turkey noodle soup, and a spicy alligator jambalaya. wild game

The main menu included pot roast of caribou and moose, saute of elk and venison, stuffed rolled venison loin, wild duck with apples, pheasant with lemon sauce, succulent “wascally wabbit,” wild salmon, wild boar pulled pork (my personal favorite), and stews made with beaver, raccoon and squirrel.

game stews

Front to back: Brunswick stew with squirrel, beaver stew, and raccoon with noodles. Photo by Jennifer Brizzi.

Side dishes of squash, mashed potatoes, green beans and red cabbage went virtually unnoticed.

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One Comment leave one →
  1. July 1, 2010 7:59 pm

    Hi! I just happened upon your blog and wanted to let you know that we have reopened our dining room at The Red Hook Country Inn under the name The Chef’s Table. More information is available on our website but we operate a prix fixe dinner primarily on Friday-Sunday. Reservations are required 24 hours in advance with the selection of entree. Our prices are $59 and $69 for a fabulous and intimate 4 course dinner ending with coffee/tea. Our menu items include Seafood, Meats and Vegetarian options. We begin with a fabulous Mediterranean Salad with organic greens, Israeli Salad and tabouleh sprinkled with our signature dressing of evoo, balsamic vinegar and sundried tomatoes. We follow with a vegan based soup (no flour, butter or cream). Our entrees are served with Hudson Valley veggies and a starch of either Moroccan couscous or Saffron pilaf rice. Our desserts are Patricia’s apple pie, Chef Nabil’s Baklava specialty, served with fabulous homemade ice cream or English whipped cream!

    The dining room setting is non traditional as it is set with Ralph Lauren tableclothes, china, crystal and is a customized dining experience. The colder weather has a lovely fireplace in use and it is totally airconditioned in the warmer weather. Soft music plays in the background!

    This is a beautiful experience and opportunity with Nabil who was formerly the chef to Aristotle Onassis and Jackie Kennedy Onassis, as well as Princess Margaret.

    Please call to make a reservation for our customized dining opportunity. Treat your palate at The Chef’s Table at The Red Hook Country Inn.

    PS: Check our front webpage to read outstanding reviews of our dining options.

    Pat Holden

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